Day 140 (Broome to Melbourne (via Perth))

May 21 (Tuesday)

Today is the final day of this journey before I head back to cold Melbourne. I have cycled across four states, seen many different things and have slept in all sorts of conditions over the last 150 days. I've pushed my self to the absolute limit, both physically and mentally. It will be a strange feeling getting back to some type of 'normality' in everyday life again. 

I've become quite adapted to scanning good areas to sleep, or looking through skip bins for left over food. I definitely won't be missing a sketchy sleep at the back of football oval, or in an abandoned property, however I'm not so sure that I'll be truly happy in an enclosed bedroom in the urban suburbia. This is perhaps my biggest fear once returning home, is finding a place to live where I can still feel free. I don't want to go back to the hustle and bustle of the inner suburbs of Melbourne, but I'm hoping to find a nice garden and a nice sized place to enjoy my time. I would like to make a fire now and then and cook my food outside under the stars. This ride has made my desire to be self sustainable even stronger, producing my own organic veggies and preferably having access to established fruit trees. I will be looking around Clayton or Oakleigh area, close by to the Monash University for a place that I can rent while I do my studies. 

Yesterday as the sun set over cable beach I sat down and reflected on the trip. I was thinking on what I've learnt as a human being and in what ways I've perhaps changed as a person. The key thing that stood out to me was the importance of being around good people. People who can share simple pleasures in life with. The two French girls who I've met up with have helped me realise this as well, as two days ago I was sitting at cable beach alone and was not able to truly enjoy the sun set. I had other things on my mind and I couldn't really be at peace. Yesterday whilst watching the same sunset, but with my two French friends I was a lot more relaxed. I think being alone for so long of this ride has made me realise the importance of people, the importance of being a part of a community and appreciating all kinds of people. I hope when I return to Melbourne I can find a place and manage to surround my self with good people.

It will be a rather cold feeling, both weather wise and also again loneliness wise once returning to Melbourne. I will arrive to Melbourne around 5 am in the morning, doing the red eye trip from Broome that departs at 21:00 tonight. The weather change will be around -29 degrees, with Melbourne being around 5degrees at 5 am and Broome reaching the mid 30s  earlier today. I will arrive to my home town without the fabulous reception that Shane Crawford or perhaps many others have had after a big bike trip, rather I will be by my self and after assembling my bike out of the box I will then have to cycle back to my mothers place. I must admit it does work out convenient as my mother is currently overseas and the house will be empty for another week, hopefully giving me time to get back into work, look for a place and settle in a bit. With infers crossed I can get into my own place within a few weeks of work and saving up, otherwise it might be back to the tent in local parks and neglected property sites. 

Day 136 (Broome - Rest Day)

May 17 (Friday)

Today I checked into a hostel. I actually stayed at this same hostel when I was in Broome two years ago. It's consistent with the cheapest dorms at the two other hostels in town, admittedly the 12 room dorm being $2 more per night then the others yet this one being in a more centralised location.

It feels good to not have to worry about keeping everything spotless and stating in somebody else home. It's also a good change to that of spending most of my time alone. It was sad to leave my friends place because she was very pleasant to me and incredibly generous to have me stay for the previous week. I was hoping to camp today but my friends decided the weather wasn't good enough to go.

I must admit this hostel isn't the cleanest place around but I am still more than content with it, after camping for so long and sleeping on my sweat/bug covered ground mat this is still a great luxury. I am wandering whether this mindset will change once returning home?

I have to note that my host also allowed me into her workplace yesterday. She is an architect for an Aboriginal organisation (NBC) that specify in culturally sensitive housing designs. The organisation have a great mission and set of objectives, in which they are attempting to help promote Indigenous self-determination. I was very pleased to get an idea of my friends work place and also have an insight into an Aboriginal controlled organisation. In addition the surrounding work offices were of an Aboriginal focus as well. It was yesterday that I actually had a very big shock into the severity of Aboriginal health in remote areas. I was informed that in recent studies one in two adolescents to the age of 14 were diagnosed with Fetal Alcohol Syndrome (FAS). This blew me away, I felt like being sick. It killed me when I heard that. The study was done in a community a hundred or so km north of Broome. When I hear statistics such as this I have this overwhelming feeling to do something about it. I feel that I am obliges to dedicate my time in working to prevent it. I definitely need to be more proactive when I return home and get involved with organisations that address this and help prevent it (and if there are none, look into the development of such an organisation).

Some good socialising tonight and some more time with my French friends down at Cable Beach!

Day 135 (Broome - Rest Day)

May 16 (Thursday)

I spent today looking at rental properties close to the University where I will commence studying in July. I have realised on my ride that I would be more content with city living if I have access to my own garden space in which I can make productive for sustainable living and beneficial for the environment, relaxing, and a little private escape from the surrounding built area. I feel incredibly free on the bike and  enjoy camping in a natural setting, but it would be most ideal to have a permanent set up where I can start to develop consistent sustainable lifestyle.

I am incredibly bored in the place where I am staying. I do realise I am fortunate to have a place to stay here in Broome with a very kind women, yet I am becoming very uncomfortable with staying in the one place with no one around. I have a few friends who I also met on my journey, and I am hoping to go camping with them at some point in the next few days. As the weather is quite bad we can not confirm anything at this moment. I have booked a flight back to Melbourne for next Tuesday night (21/06). If I don't go camping I think I will check into a hostel in town. I have roughly 5 days remaining and would love to meet other people and explore more of the surrounding area. My host here however is persistent that I stay here for free! Now that I have arranged to return to Melbourne I have a lot less stress on my financial situation. I know that I can at least make it back and survive for a week or two without being overly tight. The best thing is I have been informed work is very busy, something I am looking forward to getting straight into. The idea of saving and getting my own place is becoming very dominant and strong in my mindset.

I have to note how extreme the weather is here!! The rain is non-stop. It is almost flooding the streets. Thank god I'm not camping out tonight!.

Tonight my host and I enjoyed another nice meal together!

Day 134 (Broome - Rest Day)

May 15 (Wednesday)

I have confirmed today that I will be finishing this journey. I have spent today searching the cheapest possible way to return home. I contemplated hiring a free relocation van to Perth so I could fly out from there to Melbourne, saving $200 on a flight from Broome to Melbourne. I realised I need a $1000 bond for that which I don't currently have. I then looked at gum tree for any share rides down to Perth or up to Darwin yet each one demanded shared expenses over two weeks travelling, in which case I'd be better off cycling north for the same money and same time (admittedly without seeing a thing and a lot less fun).

I booked a flight back to Melbourne. This was a very heavy feeling. It was very hardd for me to confirm it on the computer. I stopped and had another hard think about it. The main thoughts that I'm having are "Will I regret this when I'm back home?" "Will I feel that I wasted an opportunity to ride south to north?" "Have I backed down on my word and a goal that I made for an organisation?".

I justified all of these questions by thinking thoroughly on each of them. I won't regret it because its not about self or ego, it's about the people around me and trying to help troubled youth who may need extra support.

Will I feel I wasted an opportunity riding south to north? Yes I definitely will. The reason why this decision can be made easier however, is because I know I will have a drive to do something else perhaps on a larger scale at sometime in the future. Why would I ride north now and not enjoy a thing and then gain some false form of content with seeing this part of Australia.

Have I backed down on my goal and my word to Whitelion? I feel yes but others say no. Deep inside this is perhaps the most hardest to overcome. I have always been committed to delivering what ever it is I'll say I'll do. In this situation I feel it's magnified by a thousand times, yet it is still a word that was driven by my self and not under the expectation of anyone else. If a company would have sponsored the ride and said - I'll give a few thousand dollars to Whitelion if you make it to Darwin - then I would have something to fulfil. At the moment I have sent emails non stop to various newspapers and phoned radio stations only to receive false promises of publishing a story, and other times never receiving responses. I know this is also a failure of my time input, as if I called everyday and persisted with it then I would possibly have more coverage. As I've mentioned I'm not a salesman, I don't like hitting others up for money and I don't like giving off an impression that you only want to be polite with others just to ask them for money. I was hoping Whitelion as an organisation could of promoted that more, as I feel if someone else is to ask to fundraise on behalf of another person that feeling of being a salesman is somewhat diminished. In saying this I have no hesitation in promoting the reasoning of my ride in the hope of making people aware of troubled youth, such as those like my own brother. At this time asking for money to help the cause is a lot easier.

So then I felt content with my decision to leave. I realised without the support crew that the Sam fella had from yesterday I would not have a chance of fundraising to a large extent. To ride and manage the rest of the trip with out any services in the bush leaves little time to follow up on the promotion of the ride.

Talking about the promotion of the ride I received a phone call from a media partner of Whitelion saying they could do a story in the local paper in Broome. I thought this was great, would have been even more great in every other town as well. They explained there was a catch though. I had to provide a photo with my Aboriginal friend so they could do a story on it and how I gave him a football jumper. At this moment I reflected on Sam the man riding the unicycle. I saw a photo yesterday of him laying on the ground in front of 20 odd Aboriginal kids. The biggest thing I am always cautious of is trying to pump up my own ego and image by taking photos with Aboriginal or even Indigenous people that I've met overseas. If you think about it it's pretty demoralising when you single out one group of people for a photo, really not so dissimilar to taking a photo of an animal in a zoo. In addition I didn't want my friend thinking I only gave him a gift so I can get some type of self promotion out of it. I also didn't feel comfortable being the white saviour in the photo along with a few other reasons. I explained to the media organiser that I can give them any other photo, so will now wait and see what they say. I don't think they understood why I didn't want to do this..

Still no response from Sam either.. Not sure why he said he would meet me today. I haven't heard of any other cyclist out here so would be hard to get this confused.

Tonight a beautiful sunset whilst catching up with some friends I met in Kimba, South Australia.

Day 133 (Broome - Rest Day)

May 14 (Tuesday)

I found my friend!!! I gave him the football jumper and also caught up with a few other fellas who I had met during my last encounter in Broome. This was a very surreal experience, and one that I will remember for many years to come.

The process of finding where he lived will be perhaps just as memorable as giving him the jumper itself. I had a street name to follow up today after meeting a local Aboriginal women yesterday. The women approached me at the front of the shopping mall and asked me for a dollar. The exact wording was, in pidgin English "ay there, you gotta dollar?". I responded that I didn't but offered her some bread. She sat with me at the front of the mall, and we shared some bread with peanut butter on it. This was yet another unexpected moment that I felt perfectly comfortable with. I used the wooden taste tester stick I collected from Wendys to spread the peanut butter on the bread for the lady. It is in moments such as these that generate the most deepest feeling of human interaction and connection, a feeling that is very difficult to describe. A complete stranger is willing to share a peanut butter sandwich having no hesitation or reluctance to interact with another human being - all in the most unconventional manner. I wrote about my interaction a week or so ago with a mainstream non-Indigenous couple that wouldn't let me within a few metres of their van. They believed I was too dirty from being out on the bike for so long, which is not something I'd contest but the behaviour itself was something I find questionable. The most singular contrast of these two situations is the capability of one person, or culture for that matter, to value and identify any member of society as equal and no different to any other person regardless of appearance, clothing, class or even racially. In all my experiences human nature seems to be more prevalent in cultures with minimal mainstream influence, perhaps resulting from the idea of want, need and greed that's so heavily advertised.

Following my sandwich with the Aboriginal women I saw Sam, the man riding a unicycle for breast cancer science research. I had sent a few emails off to this man in the last week, as I had been informed from a few friends that this guy would in Broome during the same time as my self. I never received any response. A friend of mine also tried to get in contact with him, with no prevail. I thought perhaps he was to busy to see my emails or messages. The thing that contradicted this belief though, was having seen irrelevant social media posts via his facebook page making me well aware that he had opportunities to see my messages. Despite not hearing anything back, I took this opportunity to approach him at the shops. The reason I wanted to have contact with him was so I could help promote my own bike ride, as he has over 25,000 followers in his social media sites. I had little to offer in return, having a measly 300 in comparison.

As I approached Sam I could not believe the feeling of intimidation he had given off. I would describe it as an impression of deep concern, something you would imagine from a timid school child confronted by a high school bully. I realised he had previously walked past me, whilst I was sitting with the Aboriginal women eating the bread with peanut butter. I also thought that perhaps the women may of asked him for a dollar. As I went up to say hello the Aboriginal woman was alongside me. I believe this definitely contributed to his standoffish behaviour, along with me looking like I've slept in the bush for the past week (which I had).

I explained what I was doing and how I'd love to team up for a few photos in the hope to help promote the two rides. I knew I had little to offer in promotion for his cause, but the way in which I spoke and interacted with him would surely of been something admirable. I explained where I've been, my timing to get there and everything else about my trip. I had the feeling he took very little of this information in. The only response I received was that "I've already organised to meet up with you tomorrow mate". I thought, has he? Have I not received these emails? Or the messages? As he was somewhat wimpish and keeping quite distant, he seemed very relieved when the moment was interrupted from a member of his support crew. They pulled up in a fully signed van opening the door for him (like a famous actor off the red carpet) and also for his other friend he was with, who I also assume was part of the support crew. Before the van drove off a man from the Wendy's shop came running out with a bag full of hotdogs and other treats. He exclaimed "Sam, Sam take these for the road, a gift from us!!". Sam took the bag and drove off. I felt this moment had just happened for some type of deeper reason, a message from someone or something. I looked at the van drive off, I then looked at the Aboriginal women eating my bread and then looking at my bike. I explained in Wendy's that I was cycling for a good cause, yet they almost charged me for a taste tester stick to spread the peanut butter. This was also on my mind. It was a clear train of thought, which is a lot more difficult to make clear through text. I am sure for those reading this a few thoughts could be generated as to what I was thinking.

After this I checked all my emails and messages to realise I hadn't heard anything from Sam or his support crew. I decided to leave this train of thought and continued my conversation with the Aboriginal women in the hope to find my friend.

The women claimed to have lived on the same street as him. Her accent was very heavy so was hard for me to understand. It also didn't help that the street name was rather different. The street was "Portabello". As I couldn't really understand this from the women I looked at the map of Broome for anything sounding familiar.

I managed to find it on the map this morning so rode my bike around and luckily found his house from memory. The ride there was a serious eye opener. For any person to claim Australia doesn't have inequality I would strongly recommend them to come here. I do question the means of this inequality, as I certainly believe there's more then enough opportunities for the Aboriginal community to live in better conditions. All the housing is covered in tagging, the whole streets covered in broken glass, broken chairs on the street, over grown weeds, holes in house walls. It was very intimidating cycling through this street, as at the front of each house were at least half a dozen jet black Aboriginal people staring down at me. I could imagine what they were thinking of some white guy coming through on a descent push bike.

It was hard to recognise the house with all the junk and weeds at the front of the properties. I didn't want to tip toe around the houses as I'd imagine the people around wouldn't have warmed to it. I decided to knock on the door of the house I thought it was. It was empty and looked like no one was in. Out of nowhere a women appeared behind the window. This nearly gave me a heart attack. She directed me a few houses down so I took off again.

At the front of my friends house were a group of Aboriginal people sitting down. I rode my bike into the driveway as they all stared me down. I said "G'day fellas, Eric Hunter around?". They said "Hey brother, yeah he's inside". I realised one of the men were uncle Rich, one of the law men who carried out the trek I did a few years ago. The others were all cousins and other relatives of each other. Eric came out in great surprise. I could tell he was very shocked to see me and also very pleased. He said "Hey Jamie! How ya going". I have to note that the English here is also difficult to understand so I always had to try hard to listen.

I told him where I'd been and how I had travelled into Broome. I told him how I was still over the moon with my necklace and I hadn't forgot about him. I grabbed the football jumper and handed it over. He was really in great shock. The jumper was brand new and still perfectly clean. I wandered how long it will stay like this, as I realised everyone else were wearing old and worn clothing. He read the message I wrote on the back and it seemed he was still trying to come to grips with the situation. His mother was also in the house and he went up to show the jumper off. Eric is in his late 30's and has battled much of his later years in alcohol rehab. One of the main reasons I wanted to give the jumper was to encourage him to keep going with the trail walks and also pursue activities such as wood carvings. He is a clever man yet seems that he might not be aware of his own capabilities. I always said to him, and continued today, that he's got a talent with paintings and also carvings.

After our initial contact we all sat down together at the front. Throughout the day a number of stragglers made there way into the driveway. This was awkward for me as with the culture here you are not introduced, you have to gradually introduce your self via your own interactions. At one point there may have been about 15 of us sitting down. On the other side of the road was another house doing the exact same. A few other houses in the street also were doing this. I had even noticed this in Karratha in an Aboriginal neighbourhoods I cycled last, very common for many to sit at the front of the house.

Half of the people at Eric's were trying to be dry (alcohol free), while a few others were getting into the beers. Eric explained he got out of rehab a few days ago, and was finding it difficult to avoid the drink now. A number of people repeatedly said to each other "would love a beer". A few others claimed "what a boring day". The understanding of Aboriginal communities fighting alcohol abuse became clearer and clearer throughout the day. This was made even harder for Eric and his friends as the house on the other side were drinking and creating a fair bit of attention. They had music playing, Eric informed me they were having a party. I asked what for and there seemed to be no apparent reason. I realised this was a Tuesday, not a public holiday and it was 13:00 in the middle of the day. I wandered how these people had money to even survive, making me want to investigate centrelink payment system even more. Despite the alcohol issues and over emphasis on eating McDonald's, the culture was great to be around.

After a while I decided it was time to move on. I asked the guys what they would be up to on the weekend, only to realise the weekend would be irrelevant to them. They told me they would take me out fishing for turtle and dugong. The offer sounds tempting, although I don't know if I could bring my self to do it!!

Day 132 (Broome - Rest Day)

May 13 (Monday)

This morning I went for a ride around the neighbourhood to see if I could find my friends house. I was there during the evening on only one occasion, which was two years ago, so it was a little bit of a wild shot. My memory of it is still quite strong and the neighbourhoods certainly looked very familiar to me. I crossed a few streets I know we would of walked along but I couldn't manage to find his house or street for that matter.

After this I went down to the local radio station. My friend here has a contact and managed to get me a foot in the door for an interview. This was great, I'll take any opportunity to promote the cause and send a positive message for other young people.

After the radio I asked a few local people if they knew any details of my friend. Every body seemed to know who he was yet didn't know where he lived. The common traits of Aboriginal communities elsewhere is certainly evident here, with many of the Aboriginal people explaining to me they are familiar of many other Aboriginal family names. The family names seem to very strong amongst the community, perhaps linking back to traditional cultural ties.

I met a security guard who was a very nice man. He said he'd make a few phone calls for me and let me know if he found anything. Hopefully this works out..

Another good feed and more relaxing.

Day 131 (Broome - Rest Day)

May 12 (Sunday)

Man, I tell you it has been so great to have a day off!! I slept like a baby last night and naturally was up very early this morning.

I went with my friend, with whom I'm staying with, down to cable beach. She participated in a fun run, so I went for a swim and did some more relaxing. I would have loved to join in the run, but having no runners and feeling very heavy I didn't want to push my self. For most of today I've been sitting around and not exerting much energy. This has felt unreal. I wonder how long it will be until this effect wears off.. As I know in general I'm quite discontent with lounging around for long periods. At the moment however, it feels like I'll be content with it for a little while yet..

I also went down to the outside garden Broome market with my friend , and we enjoyed some local cuisines. My thoughts became even more engrossed in going home. I realise that if I were to go home I wouldn't have to be so concerned with my finances and could enjoy my time even more. The repetitive diet is really something that annoys me. My diet is usually something I prioritise highly, even avoiding anything artificial, preservatives also gm products (which are actually in nearly every food we eat now - anything with maize, soy, canola oil plus a few other staple ingredients). So to eat absolute rubbish based off price is certainly something I would like to avoid when possible. This experience certainly makes me understand how so many communities in western countries suffer health wise, when processed bleached white flour products are cheaper than anything wholesome. This also strengthens my view on non-western countries being just as developed as western countries, as they still consume natural wholesome foods on a large scale. What is 'development'? Buildings? Or good health and a good life? The latter should be complete an utter common sense, yet many of us fail to see this. What I have witnessed in the past and now see more clearly is a large consumer driven, media controlled unaware western population passing on their disconnected mindset over on mass scale to the worlds remaining rich cultures. On another note Broome having a few good shops around will allow for a good feed over the next few days.

I have been asking around about my friend in Broome, trying to track him down. I plan to give him a signed North Melbourne football jumper. This is a gift I have for him, as a few years ago I was in Broome and he gave me a local hard wood hand carved pendant on a necklace. I planned on sending the jumper in the mail yet must of left it in the hands of someone else to do. A few years later I realised it was never sent and have now made it a priority of this trip to meet him and hand it to him my self. This I know will be a great surprise for him. He had informed me he had never been outside of this region of W.A so to get a jumper like this would be very special. The jumper also had a price tag of $120, and I couldn't really imagine him justifying this price on a football jumper. The necklace he made me, being more of a spiritual item than anything else, really bares no price at all. The psychological strength it has given me on this journey, having something from the land, something that has guided me and driven me to Broome is something I couldn't of purchased. It actually broke on the same day of arriving into Broome, a very spooky coincidence, now being in the country of its origin.
Tomorrow I hope to get a few more leads, hopefully I can find him!!

P.s what a great dinner tonight and what a great host I have!!

Day 130 (Bush to Broome)

May 11 (Saturday)
Day: 160.25km
Ride Time: 7hours 33minutes

Another long day. The environmental conditions changing even more so today, making the ride feel a bit quicker then previous days. Thicker vegetation, reflecting more of what you'd expect in the Kimberley. This is not to say today was easy, as it was still very hard riding.

In the morning the wind couldn't make a decision of what way to blow. I figured the tides must of been changing, as the wind was hitting me from all over. As I entered the last 150km into Broome my morale boosted a little more. It was finally within reach. In this moment I realised Darwin was also not that much further ahead. To ride to Darwin from Broome would be equivalent of riding this leg from Pt Hedland to Broome three times over. I realise that once I'm in Darwin I will think the same about going to Alice Springs, and then possibly the next destination..

The heat was taking it out of me, along with occasional head winds. I had to cover my odometer so not to see how many km's were left, as it felt like forever. This mental challenge is harder then the physical push. I went past a roadhouse 30km before Broome and really wanted to avoid it. If I could go straight to a supermarket in Broome then I wouldn't have to spend the excessive amount for a cold drink in the roadhouse. As I took the left turn into Broome, the last straight, and came up to the roadhouse I was hit with a massive headwind. My body was in heavy pain so I took the weak option and stopped at the roadhouse. I spent a crazy $5 on a slurpee just to have an icy hit. The feeling of sitting down in the shade enjoying a slurpee after the last few days is something words cannot explain. Anything negative exits your mind and you really appreciate every single moment.

I kept pushing to Broome before I would of sent my self broke on slurpees. I hit the supermarket straight up, buying a tub of mango sorbet, a banana and a litre of fruit juice to make my own smoothie (all the same price as one slurpee, go figure..) I learnt my lesson now to avoid cramming large amounts of dairy, after having long periods without it. I collected a wooden stick from the Wendy's ice-cream taste tester box and used it as a scoop.

Whilst enjoying this I reflected on my last time here in Broome, roughly two years ago. I thought about how the last time I was here I was so curious what was in the landscape on the outskirts. I used to wonder where the country started to change and what the country was like along the way down south. I feel a level of satisfaction knowing I've lived in country all the way up here and also experienced all the conditions and the people that go with it. These thoughts making my decision to go further north or finish here even harder..

I had been in contact with a friend I met on the Nullarbor who lives here in Broome. He mentioned he'd put me up when I arrived so I got in touch with them when pulling in. After my feed at the supermarket I headed over to their place, where I am now enjoying a few basic comforts. I tell you what, it feels so great to not have bugs constantly nipping at you, sweaty sticky skin, stress about animals getting in my gear and a whole range of other things. It made me realise how much I'd enjoy seeing this next part of country in a van which could ward off some of those little yet incessant annoyances.

My minds a roller coaster at the moment... At least I'm in town and have a bit of time to contemplate my plans, whilst having the luxury of accommodation in a local apartment.

Day 129 (Sandfire to Bush (on way to Broome))

May 10 (Friday)
Day: 167.55km
Ride Time: 7hours 39minutes

It was difficult sleeping last night. I'd like to say it was my thoughts to keep going or finish, but it was more the sweat soaked sleeping mat and thousands of bites on my body keeping me up.

I got up nice and early, packed my gear before 7 had my oats and took off. I went in to the roadhouse to say thanks to the two ladies who were in last night as they were friendly people. The two weren't working but a real bitter surly old women was behind the counter, turns out she is the manager. I asked her to pass on a message that I was pleased with there kindness and she responded by saying "what, were you in trouble or something?" I said no but I just wanted to say thanks for being nice and good bye. She stared at me and said ok. She then walked out with a cigarette and meat pie (at 7am) and expressed her concern over my health an safety to cycle without a bicycle helmet. I scratched my head whilst registering her remark.. I wonder to my self, would she have ever cycled in her life? The thing I also wonder is why her comment gets more understanding from society, rather then the question of a person smoking and eating a meat pie at 7am.

I chucked my legionnaires hat on and took off. It was another long ride facing head wind at times throughout the day. The thing I find challenging now is mentally accepting the 8hours a day on the bike with my mind inactive. The environmental change has been so minimal lately and I really have very little to focus on besides the tarmac beneath me. The thing that keeps me going is the thought of supporting a good cause. This is why it is difficult when I feel I could probably create more awareness at home in my daily life.

Along half way a miracle happened. The landscape changed for the most significant amount in a long time. It shifted from arid shrub land to more densely covered green and large shrubs to small trees. I feel that this is now the transition into the Kimberly. It certainly does feel like a different country and has provided me with a much needed morale booster.

It was roughly 320km from the roadhouse to Broome, so I thought if I hit just over half way today then I could hit Broome tomorrow with my total water supply.

Around 170km in I saw a rest area. This was great as I was in desperate need for some open space to sleep. The untouched bush would of been acceptable but the opportunity to have open area was more appealing, due to my concern of snakes in this country.

I pulled in and got my cooker going straight away. My biscuits had sustained me for most of the day but a proper feed was desperately in need. My body must really be annoyed with me, considering my lunch is non-existent, unless you can call processed wheat flour biscuits lunch.. It makes me feel sick thinking this is the only crap I put in my body especially after so much physical strain. The thing that also makes me feel sick is the heavy plastic taste from my water bladder that I have to consume regularly throughout my trip.

As my cooker was going I pulled out my mini radio. I started trying to tune into tonight's football game. If it were any normal game I'd could've manage to accept not getting reception, but being such a good game with my team and another ladder leader I was trying very hard to tune in. I walked around everywhere holding it up and down to tune in. I couldn't get a thing. Two seconds later a huge camper van pulled in with a massive satellite dish on it. The football on t.v seemed like a far cry and didn't actually enter my mind. Two older couples came out of the van and started talking about tonight's game. My ears pricked up as I heard them say they were going to watch it on t.v. They said hello and I asked about the satellite. They mentioned it was for t.v and that they're going to watch the football. I explained Essendon was my team and how keen I was on watching it too. There wasn't really an offer so I asked if I could join. The man was low on courage and couldn't say no to my face, so said no worries and it was ok. I was all of the sudden very excited to see the game! A few minutes later I heard the two men speaking and one of them say "we can't have him in here, he'll bloody stink!!". I tried to imagine I didn't hear it, until only seconds later the large man said they couldn't get the t.v working so I couldn't watch it. I knew it was a lie and said no worries. You can imagine my emotions being turned upside down. This is why I disconnect from wealthy western people as many can be judgemental and self orientated. Every Aboriginal person I've met has come and sat with me and not thought any different of me - a very powerful quality.

They people must of realised how dejected I was and figured a way for me to watch with them. The nicer man brought a bucket of water over and asked if I could wash my self. I asked if the water was drinkable, no way I was going to waste it. The larger man overheard and mumbled a few things, from which I understood it to be bore water that was filtered in his van. I thought anything would be better then the heavily plasticised water I'd been drinking, so filled my water bottles up in front of the others. I kept a little water to dip my handkerchief in to wash my legs so they weren't so sticky from sweat and dirt in my tent tonight. I gave the bucket back and explained I was ok with my radio and I'd see them later. I grabbed all my gear and walked into the bush area to sleep away from where they were. All I could hear was them cheering the game all night, at least in the bush I didn't hear it. The radio didn't work but at least I had Internet to follow the game. Probably better I didn't watch in the end as my team lost anyway!

The sound of deluded campers has now passed for that of dingoes howling. Another sign of different country- the animalia beginning to change. I'm hoping they don't get into my food tonight. I've hung up my sandals in a tree as the bush around me is very thick and I may not be able to find them if they were to be taken again!!!

Day 128 (Pardoo RH to Sandfire RH)

May 09 (Thursday)

Day: 140km
Ride Time:

I'm laying in my tent considering my plans. I am mentally over the journey, based off the fact I have low morale. All my morale is to go home. I want to set up a few things and get my self ready for Uni, a place to live and some income to help fund everything. If I left in Broome then I'd have plenty of time to sort these things out. On the other hand - if I go to Darwin then I could manage to support Whitelion even more and also promote a positive message for troubled youth and help put this discussion on the table of other Australian families. This is a massive motivation for me, along with my environmental drive also being a big motivation for me. The ride to Darwin I know I can do. This is no question to doubt. I am not questioning whether I can do it or not - I am questioning whether my mind can sustain another 2000km of tarmac passing under me. I have had many realisations on this trip and one of those are to stop making things so difficult for my self. I always push things to the limit, which I believe in many cases can be good, but when my education is involved and the prospect of making a descent livelihood to support future plans then it is a different situation. I originally wanted to make a difference. It was the sole reason for me leaving. I wanted to do something so big that it would be on the table of most Australian households. Initially I wanted to support something on environmental, social and cultural level. It was hard to express what I wanted to support, because the issues I was concerned about seemed to be so different to everyone else, yet it all connected to me. I was concerned inside myself about the conditions of Aboriginal health and cultural disintegration whilst also being concerned about my brother and his drug addictions. I found my escape, besides from staying at my Omas, through the natural environment. So then I thought I wanted to support environment awareness. After riding in Tasmania I realised this approach wasn't going to work, so I made my cause directly focused on troubled youth. I realised this is where many people can end up turning their whole lives for the better or worse. My case better, my brothers case worse. The main difference- I lived at my Omas. I realise the case with my brother was he had very minimal support and when support came it was too late, he was suffering addiction and was unfortunately susceptible to mental illness as a result of this.

I chose Whitelion because they help all youth. Whether they are drug dealers, addicts or thief's. The thing they all have in common is they are youth and they need support- the same as every single one of us. The thing now is, if I can't spread the word through what I'm doing then it feels like a waste of time. I can ride, ride and keep on riding, but if its not going to go far for the cause then I have no morale. I no longer get excited by the environmental change and diversity that I was in the first half of my trip. This is replaced for a deep excitement to enter a supermarket. A supermarket is a place I would normally run from- now I dream and day dream about one.

On another note the ride today was alright. I no longer stop when the distance is around 150km. I urinate off the side of the bike and position all my drink bottles so I don't have to pull over. It's a real halt in momentum when you stop at a good speed. It is also hard to keep staring at the clock as it ticks away, when your well aware that at best possible scenario you have minimum of 5 hours remaining on your daily plan. I just put my head down and keep riding. If I stop then I still have 5hours remaining, possibly 6 or 7 depending on wind. If I urinate off the side of the bike then I have under 5 hours remaining. These psychological games go on all day and by mentally overcoming them I am able to continue each day.

I must also note the incredible amount of mosquitoes out here. Tonight and also last night have been the most amount of mosquitoes I've almost encountered in my whole life. More as in the numerous tropical rainforest I've been to. I sat inside the camp kitchen and ate my cous cous and tuna with the door shut. It was equivalent to a sauna on full blast, as my whole body was dripping sweat. I've added a photo for you to see the sweat on my body.

Day 127 (South Hedland to Pardoo Roadhouse)

May 08 (Wednesday)

Day: 145.20
Ride Time: 6hours 02minutes

I was all prepared this morning for this next leg of the journey. It feels weird to think I'm on the final stretch to Broome. This is almost a big a psychological challenge as when I took on the Nullabor. I still remember meeting two cyclist on the Nullabor, and asking then what there most difficult part has been and they said the stretch from Broome to Pt Hedland. This has been on my mind ever since so perhaps why I am putting so much thought into it now.

The ride today was bearable. I had a tailwind at times, making for good average speeds. I took off quite early so was therefor able to pull up nice and early for the day. I pulled into a roadhouse. They charges $8 a tent site so I took up the offer. It's only the 4th place I've paid for accommodation since being in W.A. After looking over my finances I realise I've only actually spent $300 since leaving Perth and $900 since being in W.A. These expenses include food, accommodation, water and bike maintenance (excluding phone bills and other non-related expenses).

It's a result of being so frugal I'm now in a better position on this northern end and can now enjoy a few basic pleasures. At the same time I have to be very careful to not lose control of this frugality, as it is very tempting to spend $5 on an icecream or $5 on a cake in the servo. Gotta stick to couscous, lentils bake beans and 2minute noodles!

I also have to thank my friend in Karratha who gave me a camel pack, as I freezed this last night and the ride today was made a lot better by sipping icy cold water all day!!

Day 126 (Port Hedland - Rest Day)

May 07 (Tuesday)

In the morning I carried out maintenance on my bike including - tyre removal, switch back tyre to front and place new tyre on rear (as the rear is more weight bearing wearing out quicker), degreased chain and cassettes, lubricated all, clean bike with cloth, tightened screws and adjusted breaks to prevent rubbing on the rims. I really love looking at a cleaner bike, especially the comfort it gives me to have a more sturdy tyre and grit free chain. My chain has been skipping a little lately and I'm well aware that I'm at least 3000 km over the expected time for replacement.

My friend also took me out into the town today. He explained a little bit about the history to me, going over each of the mines in the district an which companies run them. He works in the salt plant, which I had actually ridden past yesterday. He took me to the shipping yard where we looked at a few of the freights shipping all the resources overseas (predominately China). It was weird seeing the ships right in front of me and knowing the majority of the people around me have been involved one way or another for its loading on to the ships. It made something that I had only previously read about and built ideas of in my head, real and tangible. This was a strange feeling, to think that this industry and these operations in front of me is the focus of so much conjecture and discussion both politically and environmentally all over the country.

I was really tired throughout the day but my friend was keen to show me around. He has four days off so I figure he enjoys getting out and around the town. He informed me that a lot of the people here are fly in fly out, and many others are just in for work on temporary contracts. It must be hard to build a tight community with new neighbours all the time.

Day 125 (Sherlock River to Pt Hedland)

May 06 (Monday)
Day: 145.83km
Ride Time: 6hours 28minutes

This morning I was up nice an early around 6:00. I had all my gear packed pretty quick, yet for some reason I still managed to leave around 08:30. 08:30 always seems to be the time I usually take off in the morning. I really need to work on this, as due to the hotter weather I really need to leave at the crack of dawn. I don't want the same thing happening as last week to me again. Previously the way I overcame challenges was by pushing through them, I'm now at a point where I need to strategically plan through them.

The ride to Port Hedland was around 150km. It started out ok, as I chucked on some U2 and managed to kill an hour or two until the album finished. I'm really starting to have trouble killing the time whilst riding. I'm in desperate need of some educational podcasts or something similar to numb the boredom. At the start of my trip I justified the ride time as an opening to the world around me, particularly by forming an environmental connection. I had no qualms in observing the environment around me for the 6 or 7 hours ride time throughout the day. I am now at a point where I feel lacking on an academic scale. One of the reasons for this is mostly due to the fact I'm commencing a Masters program in two months and I haven't even had a good look at the direction I want to go with it. The only academically focused information I am learning is from my books of Darwin and the environmental updates I receive over the Internet. I am always disappointed as at the end of a hard days riding I am usually to buggered to read Darwin anyway. These are certainly a few pleasures I look forward to when returning.

Once pulling into Pt Hedland I was absolutely buggered. My heart was beating very erratically, giving me great concern for my health. I really felt like I was about to drop. The weather took it out of me and a slight headwind held me back. I also had to over come a small bridge when getting into town, which took it even more out of me. I finished my last water bottle 5km before town and this made the last 5km unbearable. I had reserves but I didn't want to pull over and take all my equipment off for 5 more km's of riding.

I pulled straight into the woolworths and bought an 8pack of icypoles, a litre of yogurt, a litre of soft drink and a litre of nudie drink. I was quite surprised it all came to $7. I found a cool spot to sit down and finished everything off within half an hour. I was lucky the woolworths was here, otherwise I would of spent a fortune at a cafe or roadhouse. Whilst sitting down I looked at my glasses and realised I had a thick crust of salt over them. I also had this thick crust all over my face, a result of a lot of sweat. I saved an icypole for a female salesperson I had bumped into in Karratha, giving her great surprise when giving tapping her on the shoulder!

After this I went through my phone and got in touch with a guy I met at a roadhouse around 1000km ago. He had given me his number and said to call him when I'm in Port Hedland. I informed him roughly on the date I'd arrive so I was hoping he would be fine with me contacting him now. Turns out he was. He was more than fine with me staying at his house for a night, which means I can be in some good company again and also save a bit of money on a tent site.

I contacted the local caravan park because I had a tyre sent there a few weeks ago. I ordered it on the Internet and it was sent over from NSW. I phoned the caravan a few times in the last week and it still hadn't arrived. I was a bit nervous for this, as I realised I'd either have to hang around a few days more till it came, or otherwise buy a poorer quality one here for double the price. To my great fortune the tyre had arrived today.

My friend in Pt Hedland actually lives in South Hedland. This was annoying, as I had ridden past it, doing an extra ten Km's to Pt Hedland. He offered to come down and pick me up, which I was more then happy for him to do. On the way back to his we stopped off and picked up the tyre at the caravan park.

This fella and his partner have a nice house and two beautiful Staffordshire bull terriers. I'm looking forward to another cosy sleep. My friend here has said there is no troubles with me changing over the tyres and carrying out a few other maintenance checks tomorrow. He said I could stay an extra night, which I am more then keen to take use of before I head for the long road up to Broome!

Day 124 (Karratha to Sherlock River)

May 05 (Sunday)
Day: 102 km
Ride time: 4hours 30minutes

It was tough to take off again in the heat. I was already in a big sweat just by packing my gear in the morning. I said my farewells and took a few drink bottles out of the freezer.

Once taking off I had to dodge all the broken glass in the neighbourhood. In the neighbourhood is a large Aboriginal presence and I've been informed that they often throw the bottles around. Something not so dissimilar to the non-indigenous bogan culture in other parts of Australia.

The ride was hard at points, namely because of the heat. I passed Roeborne after 40odd km's of riding and I took the opportunity to get a slurpee in a roadhouse. An unusual $5 luxury, but I thought I'd spoil my self after having such a great time in Karratha at no cost.

I listened to the radio to kill a bit of time then switched to my stored music for the second half. I'm really finding it hard to stay motivated now. The roads are very long, hot and very repetitive. Sort of like the Nullabor but more humid.

I pulled up to Sherlock river. It is a beautiful fresh water river. Within minutes I jumped in to make the most of these rare opportunities. Every time I pass any fresh water it is very hard for me to cycle past, as I know back home it is rare to have such an opportunity. My whole trip I have had this mentality but here with the heat I have it even more so. I now have to be cautious of the crocs though. I know I'll probably be skipping most rivers past Broome area.

For dinner tonight I was fortunate enough to have left over fish from my friends in Karratha. The fish tasted even better tonight, despite being warm from todays ride, and made me reflect on how grateful I am for a great couple of days in which I also had plenty of fresh fish. It reminded me of my childhood down on the beach and eating fresh fish regularly. The son in the house where I stayed also reminded me of my brother Scott, as my brother is also a keen fisherman. Growing up my brother would make his own spears and go down the beach, similar to my friend in Karratha. They bare many similarities in there nature. They may of even possibly fished together when down at Rye.

This guy really has a remarkable story though. Something that actually brought a tear to my eye, although I tried very hard to hide it. He was diagnosed with cancer around 17/18 years of age and managed to over come it after surgery. A few years later when he was 21 it returned, unnoticed to the doctors, and he had to have intensive surgery, chemotherapy and the works to have it removed. I haven't mentioned his name here but without one word of a lie this is one of the most positive uplifting encouraging people I have met in my life. He didn't even mention his battle with cancer, I only heard it from his mother. The thing that really shook me up was that if something had of turned for the worse then I would never of been blessed with the opportunity to meet him. He has an incredible awe around him, and the people like him are what make this earth a beautiful place. I also have this thought in the back of my mind, that if my brother never succumbed to mental illness whether he would of had this similar presence. Perhaps what makes me warm so much to this guy is that he reminds me so much of my brother, before he got into his current state.